How high is Aconcagua?
Aconcagua's name has roots in the Quechua language and when translated means "The Sentinel of Stone." At 22,841 feet (6,962m) Aconcagua in Argentina is the highest peak in the world outside of the Himalaya. It is 3,500 feet higher than Kilimanjaro. And, it will be a lot more challenging.
The mountain stands on the border with Chile. It has a very steep and massive face on its south and a gentle slope on the north, with a huge glacier - the Polish glacier - flowing to the east and a series of aretes and couloirs to the west. It is one of the world's "Seven Summits" and is a world-renowned peak.
The mountain has two summits - North (22,842 feet) and South (22,736 feet), joined by a ridge (Cresta del Guanaco) that's just over a half a mile in length. Various ridges radiate from each summit and the whole massif is isolated from other high peaks.
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| The final push to the North summit |
How long will the climb take?
Known as the highest trek in the world, it will take 19 days and require 14,000 feet of elevation gain to reach the summit. The climb is broken down into two phases. The first phase is a 3-day trek from 8,600 feet (2,620m) to base camp at 13,720 feet (4,207m) at Plaza de Argentina. The second phase is the trek to the high camps and the summit. All of the "luxuries" are left behind and the serious mountain climbing will take us through Camps 1, 2 & 3 to the summit.
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| The Route from Base Camp, on past Camps 1, 2 and 3 to the summit |
How cold will it be?
Mountains are known for unpredictable weather and Aconcagua is no exception. It is known for its blasting winds and cold temperatures. Days of clear sunny skies are normal on Aconcagua, but the mountain does receive storms during the summer months due to its proximity to the Pacific Ocean, and the moist, humid winds blowing west from there. As this air rises over the slopes of the Andes, its speed increases and it condenses to form lenticular clouds on the summit, also known as viento blanco, or white wind. Given the potential for challenging weather conditions getting to the summit is not guaranteed, even for well-prepared climbers.
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| The Viento Blanco, or white wind |
What are penitentes?
Spikes of snow or ice are called penitentes, and some can be 12 feet or about 4 meters high. They are common on high-altitude glaciers, such as those in the Andes mountains, where the air is dry, and the sun's rays can turn ice directly into water vapor without melting it first - a process called sublimation. An initially smooth snow surface first develops depressions as some regions randomly sublimate faster than others. The curved surfaces then concentrate sunlight and speed up sublimation in the depressions, leaving the higher points behind as forests of towering spikes.
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| Armies of penitentes guard the mountain |
Will there be any effects of altitude?
While the climb is not difficult in mountaineering terms, just a long, tough uphill trek, one of the biggest issues is acclimatization. Above 10,000 feet (3,048m) there is a noticeable decrease in air pressure. It feels like you are breathing through a towel, making even the easiest tasks a challenge. Everything must be done in slow motion. Biologically speaking, decreased air pressure allows excess fluid to accumulate in your body. Mostly this affects the eyes, brain, and lungs and can lead to severe headaches. Extreme cases are called edema, which might be either pulmonary (lungs) or cerebral (brain) edema.
For pulmonary or cerebral edema there is only one cure - get down as quickly as you can. Oxygen on the mountain helps temporarily, but you must go down fast. In emergencies a hyperbaric bag can be used to simulate lower elevation levels by increasing the air pressure inside.
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| View from the North summit to the South summit |
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